I got back on Wednesday evening from a trip into deepest Paraguay, where the red earth contrasts with the green foliage and the blue sky and the rolling landscape is lit up by the strong, tropical sun. There is so much beauty in this country.

My purpose was to visit missionaries and collect stories of how God is impacting lives in rural Paraguay. I had a great time staying with my colleagues Dan and Sarah and their children in Caazapá, 5 hours from Asunción by bus. I got to talk to three different Paraguayans about their faith and was very encouraged by their stories. I had lots of fun playing with Dan and Sarah’s children. I learned how to make cocido – a hot, sweet drink made with the same herb used in tereré – and drank lots of it. I got to watch the three Bourne films in quick succession; we started by watching The Bourne Identity one night and at the end of it Sarah and I decided to watch The Bourne Supremacy straight away – since it was “not even eleven o’clock yet” in Sarah’s words! The following night we completed the trilogy and it was a lot of fun! One of the other missionaries on our team, Greg, turned up as we were watching The Bourne Ultimatum, because he had driven someone from his town further out in the countryside to the hospital in Caazapá and needed to stay the night. He helped with the explanations for what was happening in the film, since it was my first time of seeing it and I needed help to understand what on earth was going on at times!

Dan talking to Petronila, a real prayer warrior
On the Saturday morning I went to kids’ club with Dan and two of the children, and there met up with Ruth, who I went to Lima with in May. She helps run the club and it was fun to see her in action – she clearly has a gift for teaching kids. After the club, she took me off on the back of her moped to her house… and riding pillion was a lifetime first for me! I loved it, though it took me a while to realise it was best to fight the impulse to lean in the opposite direction whenever we turned a corner!!!!! We stayed for the weekend at her small house on the outskirts of town, where it was so incredibly peaceful. That is, except for the racket made by the birds at times, and the cows across the road… but you know what I mean – none of the city sounds of traffic or nearby neighbours. And the sky was full of stars at night because of the lack of streetlights. I got up close and personal with a frog or two in her bathroom, as well as several hungry mosquitoes over the course of the weekend.
We went for a walk on the Saturday afternoon, out to a ranch on the other side of town, where it was even more peaceful. Ruth showed me her favourite spots, which she has named according to some deep logic – there was the “Sea of Galilee” by the “River Jordan” over which we crossed into “California” and we sat for a while in the shade of “Jesus’ Temple.” We stopped and took photos of each other posing in front of the different sights, which was good fun. In the evening we went to a 15th birthday party for a close family friend of Ruth’s. I felt a little under-dressed in my jeans and trainers, but I hadn’t been expecting a party, and in the end it was a cold night and when it’s cold in Paraguay, everyone just wraps up warm and doesn’t worry too much about looking smart. I was also rather dismayed to discover that during our afternoon stroll I had acquired a somehat sunburnt face… oh well, at least nobody knew me at the party!

Ruth
Sunday was a quiet day. After church in the morning, we had a peaceful afternoon. I sat and read in the garden while Ruth had a siesta. Then we walked along her road a bit to the famous Ycuá Bolaños, the spring of water that a Franciscan monk had caused to come out of the ground in the 17th Century. The story has it that during a bad drought, the Guaraní tribal chief challenged the friar to prove his God was real. So the monk prayed, struck the rock and everyone watched as clear water flowed out. It is said that the spring has never dried up since.

Ruth’s house
On Monday morning I was on the move again, this time to Yegros, 50km away down an unpaved road. It took an hour and a half to get there because the buses are a popular mode of transport, so there is a lot of stopping and starting as the bus picks up and drops off passengers along the way. The dusty road made for a bumpy ride because when it rains, deep ruts are formed which then dry out with the sunshine. I got to Yegros, where SIM colleagues Brett and Rachael live with their family, in good time for lunch and I got to sample the most delicious bread I’ve tasted in Paraguay yet (made by a local baker).
The mosquito bites I had collected in Caazapá at the weekend were itching with a vengeance that afternoon and Rachael took pity on me. They have an aloe vera plant in their garden, from which she chopped a big, fat leaf, made a cut up it and squeezed so that first of all out came a foul-smelling green liquid, but soon after that was a colourless, odourless gel/slime. I applied this slimey gel to my angry bites and was instantly rewarded with glorious relief! The aloe vera had a wonderful cooling effect and Rachael told me it also helps the healing process on things like sunburn. What an amazing substance! Out of a plant growing in the garden…. the only comparable thing I think we have in the UK is the dock leaf to ease nettle stings!
On Monday evening, I got to take part in a Bible study the family are leading with some of the local youth. It was a privilege to see the eagerness to learn these young people had, and sobering to realise just how groundbreaking some of the truths in the Bible are for those who have been raised in the Catholic Church’s traditions. The kids stayed around to chat afterwards and it was great to watch Brett and Rachael do what they’re so good at – making relationships and loving people.
The next morning I went out with Brett on a visit to a local subsistence farmer, who also pastors the only evangelical church in town. Brett is a veterinary surgeon and was going to check on one of the pastor’s cows. It was a beautiful drive through the countryside along a dirt track. There is a lot of sugar cane grown in the area and we saw one or two refineries along the way. The pastor and his wife greeted us warmly and we sat down on their porch to chat for a good long while before going to see the cow. That’s the way in rural Paraguay. There is nothing more important than a good conversation. Nothing that can’t wait until a relationship has been established or renewed. While the pastor took Brett to the cow, his wife showed me round the farmstead and I was fascinated to see the chicks in the hen house and the huge hairy pig in its sty. She showed me the fruit trees and the vegetable plot and insisted we take away a bag full of the most enormous lemons from her tree (which Rachael later made into the most delicious lemonade). She also gave us a dozen eggs and a kilo of homemade cheese. Brett told me that this happens a lot when he goes to visit animals. The owners are keen to repay him with some of their own produce. Indeed, later that morning he went to visit a different farm and came back with one large bag of oranges and another of lettuce.

Brett (r) with Pastor Farchi
It is clear that life is hard work for the majority of people here. They eat whatever they can produce, and if they can sell some of their excess then that’s a bonus.
On Tuesday evening I got to play “Pit” with the family, which was great fun. I hadn’t played it for years and was pretty rubbish at it, but I love the fact everyone can join in and there are no great skills you need for it!
There was a big thunderstorm that evening, which turned the roads into mud and meant the bus I was intending to catch back to Asunción on Wednesday morning was cancelled. The buses are not allowed on the unpaved roads after rain. Brett kindly offered to drive me in the family’s 4×4 up to Caazapá to get the bus from there. What is normally an hour-long trip took nearly two hours, as Brett skillfully negotiated the ruts and puddles on the soft road. Rain calls everything to a halt in rural Paraguay, especially non-essential activities, so the road was quiet and when we got to Caazapá, there were very few people around. The bus left on time and I was soon on my way back to Asunción.
I feel my soul was refreshed this trip through spending good times with friends and being so close to nature. I got back home exhausted and very grateful to be in my own flat again, but somewhat sad to have exchanged the beauty and tranquility of the countryside for the noisy hustle and bustle of the city.

© Fiona L Cooper 2009